When: 7/27/09
Where: Meknes, Risanni, Merzouga, the Sahara (Erg Cherbi Dunes)
Last night we returned from the most amazing experience I have ever had. Most of what happened can not be accurately described, since it is beyond imaginable words. However, I will try to paint the best picture I can of what has happened during the last three days. On Friday we left on the bus at 2:15 pm for the 7 hour drive to Merzouga. The journey took us through the nearby Middle Atlas Mountains, which are filled with forests, monkeys, and spectacular hiking. After reaching the far side of the Middle Atlas Mountains, we were met with rolling meadows and streams that reached far into the distance to the towering High Atlas Mountains that separates the desert from the rest of Morocco. We followed the river through the High Atlas Mountains, so naturally we also saw all kinds of life next to the water. Berber nomad tents were scattered throughout the meadows, where they grazed their herds of sheep and donkeys. We passed Berbers selling mountain honey next to the road packaged in old coke bottles (however, we later heard that this 'honey' is also mixed with sugar and water). The first town you pass through once through most of the High Atlas is the city if Rich, where we bough fresh raw cows milk and admired the city which is almost indistinguishable from the browns of the mountains around it. They also had numerous almond trees and our first sign of the date palms that indicate our closeness to the desert. Our next stop was at the Ziz Gorge, which is the most beautiful oasis surrounded by canyon rocks that remind me of the Grand Canyon in the United States. Right before the Gorge there is a huge reservoir that seems like a mirage next to the greenless mountains.
Once we finally arrived in Merzouga it was past 10pm, and we were all tired and hungry. We checked into our hotel, which ended up being an incredibly beautiful family owned Riad named Riad Nezha. We were served a fabulous dinner on the terrace and quickly went to bed. Our rooms were air conditioned, which we were all thankful for in the relentless heat. However, at 2am, the entire village lost power until the next morning, so I woke shortly after and literally thought there was a heater on. Thankfully there was a light breeze, so once I opened the window I could sleep in relative comfort. The next morning's breakfast was filled with laughing conversation about our experiences the previous night with the electricity going out, and also how we all tried to take cold showers to cool down, but then found out that even the 'cold' water is incredibly hot.
Later that morning a group of us took a tour of Merzouga and the surrounding area in 4x4 trucks. Merzouga village is relatively small, and is situation on the edge of an oasis that separates the town from the Erg Cherbi Dunes. We visited the nearby lake that provides most of the water in Merzouga both for consumption and for farming. Next we went to a Gnaoua village and listened to some live Gnaoua music. The Gnaoua music tradition is a religious one whose members are descendants of black slaves brought through the Sahara to Morocco by the Arabs. 80,000 of these slaves were used to build the city of Meknes, and countless numbers of them lost their lives all over the country. The only way I can describe Gnaoua music is to say that it could be called the Moroccan Reggae, since both Reggae and Gnaoua music have a very spiritual and religious tradition that goes along with them. After that we took a 4x4 adventure through some nearby dunes and ran into a small Berber nomad residence about 20 kilometers from the Algerian border, and they invited us to have tea in their tent. It was incredibly mind opening to see how simply the nomads live, and yet how generous they are, especially with something as precious as water. We learned that they had just had a wedding that morning, and that the bride had left to travel 200 kilometers to her new home. I felt sad because I know she will probably not see her family again for a very long time, since they live so far from each other. On our way back to the Riad we saw countless camels grazing, and with each one we passed I felt more excited about our upcoming camel trek.
After a short rest and lunch, we walked through the oasis towards the desert and met our camel guides and their camels. Riding a camel was kind of awkward for me, and I felt like I was going to fall off every time the camel went downhill. However, the good thing is that camels are also very slow when they walk, so the nice rocking motion made it easy to relax and enjoy the amazing trek. We took a half hour ride to one of the huge dunes, where we stopped to climb the dune and watch the sun set. Once the sun set we headed off again and trekked another half hour to the Berber camp. Once at the camp we found our beds, had dinner, and then spent the night drumming, watching stars, and talking with friends. We all woke up early and watched the sun rise on the desert, which was a breathtaking experience. We have all seen movies like The Mummy and Laurence of Arabia, but nothing prepares you for actually being in a place where the rolling dunes stretch on to the horizon and the only sounds are the wind and your camel. The feeling of insignificance is overwhelming as you realize the power that this pitiless place has over you, and you realize that you have never appreciated water more than this moment. I felt sad as we trekked away from our camp and out of the desert, because my dream of being in the Sahara had finally come true, and I felt like I was leaving a piece of myself there.
Once back in Merzouga we returned to the Riad to take showers and pack up. From Merzouga we traveled a short distance north to Risanni. Risanni used to be a central location where nomads would meet to barter and exchange their goods. While the town is now much more that a meeting place, the market that developed because of the nomads is still there and we went to explore it. The market is very similar to the Medina in any other city, but had much more food than other items. After visiting a few more sites in Risanni and stopping to eat the famous Berber Pidza, we began our long journey back to Meknes.
I have had my share of amazing experiences, from riding elephants in Thailand, to taking a roadtrip to Croatia, but nothing has compared to my experiences in the desert of Morocco.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Parents Visit, Meknes and the Farm
When: 7/19/09
Where: Meknes
On Friday my parents arrived for a two week visit. For the past few days I have been showing them around Meknes and taking them on adventures around the city. It's interesting to see how comfortable with the city I have become, and how I am able to act like a guide, giving history tid bits and information about the places we visit. While I am just a visitor as well, I definitely feel more at home here than I did last year. My mom commented on how well I know the city, and how I can do basically everything. I am still not comfortable with going out alone, but I know that will change as I learn more of the language.
My parents are having a wonderful time so far, and it is amazing being with them as they experience things that I now see as normal. The busy Medina, with it's maze-like passageways, is a constant fascination to them, and they love exploring it's markets and streets. My mother mentioned to me how everything is completely different than she expected, and she is surprised at how little formalities there are. With Morocco being a Muslim country, she had expected to find many weird customs and rules, especially between genders. However, she has been happily surprised at how relaxed it is, and how genders are able to, for the most part, mingle together.
It's also interesting to see how small the world actually is. Even in a small city in Morocco, I constantly see Moroccans wearing shirts and caps that say “Pacific North West” or “I Love NY” and even “Seattle Seahawks.” The one McDonalds in the city is a constant reminder of globalization, and the American music that plays on the radio stations makes it easy to forget that you are actually thousands of miles away from home.
When: 7/21/09
Where: The Farm
We are back on the farm and my mom is having the time of her life. She would probably never leave if she could. We had an amazing lunch and then took a walk to see the camels, horses and beautiful gardens.
The weather these past few days have been extremely weird. On Monday it was 115 degrees and almost unbearable. It was the same unbearable heat on Tuesday, and then on Wednesday there was a huge wind and rain storm that trapped us in an internet cafe. This afternoon at the farm has been constant black rain storms around us as we sit outside in the courtyards.
Tomorrow morning we are going to go harvest pears. Hopefully we will finish before the heat gets too extreme!
When 7/23/09
Where: The Farm, Meknes
I will never look at a pear in the same way. We finally made it out to the field at 9:30am and started working. Picking pears is relatively easy; put all the big pears in a box, and get a new box when yours is full. You have to remember to pull gently upwards when picking pears, to keep the stem on, and to never drop any, since then they will bruise. It is also important to start picking from the bottom of the tree, and work your way up. We worked in twos alongside about 20 other farm workers. At 12pm we took a break for lunch, and then returned to the field a 1:30pm and continued working until 5:30pm.
The experience reminded me of my experience two years ago with working in the fields at a vineyard in France, and I was glad for the opportunity to work alongside Moroccans. The other workers, especially the women, were incredibly curious and loved getting their pictures taken and glancing at us with shy smiles. All of them were helpful when we got confused, and I think they were surprised and confused as to why American women would want to come work in the 100 degree heat all day on their vacation.
Today we did not go back out to the fields, and I have to admit that I was relieved. The actual work is not hard (just somewhat repetitive), but the heat makes it almost unbearable at times. Even with hats and sunscreen and water, I got overheated a couple times and had to sit down. I really don't know how the other workers do it, since most of women look like they are wearing winter clothes, with wool socks, thick leggings, a skirt over that, a couple shirts or a sweater, and sometimes even snow gloves.
We are now back in Meknes (where it is has been over 100 degrees this whole week) and are preparing for our 7 hours drive tomorrow to Merzouga. A group of 9 of us, including my parents and I, will join a group of 10 other American students on their bus and travel with them for the weekend. After the 7 hour drive, we will spend the night in Merzouga village. The next day we will explore Merzouga and then later in the afternoon we will take a camel caravan into the Sahara to spend the night in Berber tents under the stars. We will return to Merzouga by camel the next morning and take a bus to Risanni, where they supposedly have a huge market on Sunday. After Risanni, we will start the 7 hour drive back to Meknes, where we will arrive late Sunday night.
Where: Meknes
On Friday my parents arrived for a two week visit. For the past few days I have been showing them around Meknes and taking them on adventures around the city. It's interesting to see how comfortable with the city I have become, and how I am able to act like a guide, giving history tid bits and information about the places we visit. While I am just a visitor as well, I definitely feel more at home here than I did last year. My mom commented on how well I know the city, and how I can do basically everything. I am still not comfortable with going out alone, but I know that will change as I learn more of the language.
My parents are having a wonderful time so far, and it is amazing being with them as they experience things that I now see as normal. The busy Medina, with it's maze-like passageways, is a constant fascination to them, and they love exploring it's markets and streets. My mother mentioned to me how everything is completely different than she expected, and she is surprised at how little formalities there are. With Morocco being a Muslim country, she had expected to find many weird customs and rules, especially between genders. However, she has been happily surprised at how relaxed it is, and how genders are able to, for the most part, mingle together.
It's also interesting to see how small the world actually is. Even in a small city in Morocco, I constantly see Moroccans wearing shirts and caps that say “Pacific North West” or “I Love NY” and even “Seattle Seahawks.” The one McDonalds in the city is a constant reminder of globalization, and the American music that plays on the radio stations makes it easy to forget that you are actually thousands of miles away from home.
When: 7/21/09
Where: The Farm
We are back on the farm and my mom is having the time of her life. She would probably never leave if she could. We had an amazing lunch and then took a walk to see the camels, horses and beautiful gardens.
The weather these past few days have been extremely weird. On Monday it was 115 degrees and almost unbearable. It was the same unbearable heat on Tuesday, and then on Wednesday there was a huge wind and rain storm that trapped us in an internet cafe. This afternoon at the farm has been constant black rain storms around us as we sit outside in the courtyards.
Tomorrow morning we are going to go harvest pears. Hopefully we will finish before the heat gets too extreme!
When 7/23/09
Where: The Farm, Meknes
I will never look at a pear in the same way. We finally made it out to the field at 9:30am and started working. Picking pears is relatively easy; put all the big pears in a box, and get a new box when yours is full. You have to remember to pull gently upwards when picking pears, to keep the stem on, and to never drop any, since then they will bruise. It is also important to start picking from the bottom of the tree, and work your way up. We worked in twos alongside about 20 other farm workers. At 12pm we took a break for lunch, and then returned to the field a 1:30pm and continued working until 5:30pm.
The experience reminded me of my experience two years ago with working in the fields at a vineyard in France, and I was glad for the opportunity to work alongside Moroccans. The other workers, especially the women, were incredibly curious and loved getting their pictures taken and glancing at us with shy smiles. All of them were helpful when we got confused, and I think they were surprised and confused as to why American women would want to come work in the 100 degree heat all day on their vacation.
Today we did not go back out to the fields, and I have to admit that I was relieved. The actual work is not hard (just somewhat repetitive), but the heat makes it almost unbearable at times. Even with hats and sunscreen and water, I got overheated a couple times and had to sit down. I really don't know how the other workers do it, since most of women look like they are wearing winter clothes, with wool socks, thick leggings, a skirt over that, a couple shirts or a sweater, and sometimes even snow gloves.
We are now back in Meknes (where it is has been over 100 degrees this whole week) and are preparing for our 7 hours drive tomorrow to Merzouga. A group of 9 of us, including my parents and I, will join a group of 10 other American students on their bus and travel with them for the weekend. After the 7 hour drive, we will spend the night in Merzouga village. The next day we will explore Merzouga and then later in the afternoon we will take a camel caravan into the Sahara to spend the night in Berber tents under the stars. We will return to Merzouga by camel the next morning and take a bus to Risanni, where they supposedly have a huge market on Sunday. After Risanni, we will start the 7 hour drive back to Meknes, where we will arrive late Sunday night.
Monday, July 13, 2009
Couscous, Hammam, and a Wedding!
On Friday Kat and I went over to Mouhsin's family's house at around 12 looking to help make couscous, but found out when we got there that it was almost done and that they usually start making it at around 9am. I was really disappointed because couscous is my favorite Moroccan meal, and I would have loved to know how to make it. At around 2pm, Mouhsin's father, brother and brother in law got back from praying at the mosque and we all ate couscous together. With the couscous we had a type of kefer drink that you can buy in the supermarket, but that is apparently quite popular as a side to couscous. Mouhsin's father even put some of the couscous in his cup, mixed it up, and drank it. Half of the people eating with us ate the couscous the traditional way, but using your right hand to make small balls of couscous. The others, myself included, just used a spoon.
On Saturday, we went back to his house at around 10am and his older sister Nadia, took us to the Hammam. I was so excited for my first Hammam since getting back to Morocco, since I haven't had one for 11 months and desperately needed one. The Hammam is another amazing Moroccan experience that can not be fully experienced or understood without the help of a local Moroccan.
When you first walk in, you come to a room where there are benches around the perimeter of the room with lockers above them. In one corner there are usually around three women sleeping and relazing. These women, although you wouldn't be able to tell, work at the hammam and scrub you if you pay extra. When you go to the hammam, you take all your usual bathroom things with you, along with a small bucket, a mat to sit on, this amazing olive oil soap, henna soap, and a rough scrubbing glove. You strip down to your underwear and take all your bath stuff along with a large bucket that they have there into the hammam rooms. The hammam rooms are similar to a sauna because they are hot and steamy. Usually there are two or three rooms connected by open doors, and each room gets expedientially hotter, so you can find one that is perfect for you. Each square room is tiled and had two pipes running around the edges of it with faucets every couple of feet. One pipe is freezing cold water and the other is burning hot water. Once you find your spot, you put your mat down in front of two faucets and sit down facing the wall in front of the large bucket. Once you fill your bucket with the temperature of water that you want, you use the small bucket to get yourself completely wet. Once wet, you cover yourself with the olive oil soap and rub it in for about five minutes. After you wash that off, your use the rough scrubbing glove to scrub yourself. You can also get one of the women to do this for you, which I prefer because they are extremely good at it and you feel so silky soft afterwards. After the scrub, you do everything you would normally do when you take a shower, and relax or do whatever you want... I've even seen people sleeping. The whole process can take anywhere from 1 to 3 hours.
Later that night at around midnight we went to a wedding. The wedding started at 9pm, but since it goes until 6am the next day, we went late. I also got to wear an amazing traditional takshita, which is the Moroccan formal wear. Mouhsin's sister Touria let me borrow one from her, and only later did I find out that it was a takshita that she wore at her wedding. I was incorrect is saying that they were caftans in my first entry. A caftan has only one layer, while a takshita has one solid layer, and then another layer on top that can be solid or lace/mesh. The one I wore was pink with beautiful embroidery and beads. The wedding itself was amazing and included lots of dancing, beautiful outfits, and an amazing meal at 2am. We stayed at the wedding until 4:30am, and then went home and went to bed. Moroccans definitely know how to put on a party.
On Saturday, we went back to his house at around 10am and his older sister Nadia, took us to the Hammam. I was so excited for my first Hammam since getting back to Morocco, since I haven't had one for 11 months and desperately needed one. The Hammam is another amazing Moroccan experience that can not be fully experienced or understood without the help of a local Moroccan.
When you first walk in, you come to a room where there are benches around the perimeter of the room with lockers above them. In one corner there are usually around three women sleeping and relazing. These women, although you wouldn't be able to tell, work at the hammam and scrub you if you pay extra. When you go to the hammam, you take all your usual bathroom things with you, along with a small bucket, a mat to sit on, this amazing olive oil soap, henna soap, and a rough scrubbing glove. You strip down to your underwear and take all your bath stuff along with a large bucket that they have there into the hammam rooms. The hammam rooms are similar to a sauna because they are hot and steamy. Usually there are two or three rooms connected by open doors, and each room gets expedientially hotter, so you can find one that is perfect for you. Each square room is tiled and had two pipes running around the edges of it with faucets every couple of feet. One pipe is freezing cold water and the other is burning hot water. Once you find your spot, you put your mat down in front of two faucets and sit down facing the wall in front of the large bucket. Once you fill your bucket with the temperature of water that you want, you use the small bucket to get yourself completely wet. Once wet, you cover yourself with the olive oil soap and rub it in for about five minutes. After you wash that off, your use the rough scrubbing glove to scrub yourself. You can also get one of the women to do this for you, which I prefer because they are extremely good at it and you feel so silky soft afterwards. After the scrub, you do everything you would normally do when you take a shower, and relax or do whatever you want... I've even seen people sleeping. The whole process can take anywhere from 1 to 3 hours.
Later that night at around midnight we went to a wedding. The wedding started at 9pm, but since it goes until 6am the next day, we went late. I also got to wear an amazing traditional takshita, which is the Moroccan formal wear. Mouhsin's sister Touria let me borrow one from her, and only later did I find out that it was a takshita that she wore at her wedding. I was incorrect is saying that they were caftans in my first entry. A caftan has only one layer, while a takshita has one solid layer, and then another layer on top that can be solid or lace/mesh. The one I wore was pink with beautiful embroidery and beads. The wedding itself was amazing and included lots of dancing, beautiful outfits, and an amazing meal at 2am. We stayed at the wedding until 4:30am, and then went home and went to bed. Moroccans definitely know how to put on a party.
Back to Meknes and ISA Projects
When: 7/5/09
Where: Meknes
On the drive back to Meknes yesterday, I realized how disconnected from the United States I have become. Having limited TV and internet access, I have no idea what is currently happening in the news, and I even forgot that yesterday was our Independence Day.
Update: I found the CNN station!
When: 7/12/09
Where: Meknes
This past week we have stayed just in Meknes, and Kat and I are having a wonderful time doing things while Mouhsin and Aly are at work. We had a couple of meetings with the directors of the International Studies Abroad program here in Meknes, where we discussed the possibility of getting involved with them in starting a new project. We are all interested in starting a multicultural cafe that is directed towards student, women, children, and everyone else in the community. The cafe would be a front for a partnership with another association that we would develop that would deal with providing information on volunteer and community service opportunities in the city. The cafe would provide a space where American and Moroccan students (and people of any other ethnicity) would be able to mingle and learn about each other, and the association would allow students (especially American students) to get involved in the community while they are studying in Meknes. The association would partner with existing organizations like the American Language Center, and local orphanages, to inform American students about opportunities for service. The cafe would also serve as a space where students, women, and children would be able to express themselves while learning about other cultures. The cafe would put on events like student musicians, and showcase art from local struggling artists. This type of project would be perfect in the city of Meknes, where there is a large student community, and a strong desire from Moroccan and American students to be able to interact with each other in a common space.
I feel slightly torn, since I want so much to get deeply involved with this project, but I still have commitments back in Seattle for next year. I would love to put my school and work on hold and stay here to work on the cafe and the association, but I feel like I have already put so much into my schooling and work, and that I would regret not finishing right now. While I may not be able to be directly involved throughout the next year, I plan on helping with the project proposal and budget while I am here, and in researching possible grants and other venues for funding.
Besides having meetings with the directors of the Meknes ISA program, we also met some of the American students who are studying here at the moment. They are deep in their studies, but we all got together for a party at their apartment, and it was a great opportunity to meet and mingle with them. We are planing on taking a trip with some of the student to the Sahara later this month, which I am extremely excited about.
Where: Meknes
On the drive back to Meknes yesterday, I realized how disconnected from the United States I have become. Having limited TV and internet access, I have no idea what is currently happening in the news, and I even forgot that yesterday was our Independence Day.
Update: I found the CNN station!
When: 7/12/09
Where: Meknes
This past week we have stayed just in Meknes, and Kat and I are having a wonderful time doing things while Mouhsin and Aly are at work. We had a couple of meetings with the directors of the International Studies Abroad program here in Meknes, where we discussed the possibility of getting involved with them in starting a new project. We are all interested in starting a multicultural cafe that is directed towards student, women, children, and everyone else in the community. The cafe would be a front for a partnership with another association that we would develop that would deal with providing information on volunteer and community service opportunities in the city. The cafe would provide a space where American and Moroccan students (and people of any other ethnicity) would be able to mingle and learn about each other, and the association would allow students (especially American students) to get involved in the community while they are studying in Meknes. The association would partner with existing organizations like the American Language Center, and local orphanages, to inform American students about opportunities for service. The cafe would also serve as a space where students, women, and children would be able to express themselves while learning about other cultures. The cafe would put on events like student musicians, and showcase art from local struggling artists. This type of project would be perfect in the city of Meknes, where there is a large student community, and a strong desire from Moroccan and American students to be able to interact with each other in a common space.
I feel slightly torn, since I want so much to get deeply involved with this project, but I still have commitments back in Seattle for next year. I would love to put my school and work on hold and stay here to work on the cafe and the association, but I feel like I have already put so much into my schooling and work, and that I would regret not finishing right now. While I may not be able to be directly involved throughout the next year, I plan on helping with the project proposal and budget while I am here, and in researching possible grants and other venues for funding.
Besides having meetings with the directors of the Meknes ISA program, we also met some of the American students who are studying here at the moment. They are deep in their studies, but we all got together for a party at their apartment, and it was a great opportunity to meet and mingle with them. We are planing on taking a trip with some of the student to the Sahara later this month, which I am extremely excited about.
Friday, July 3, 2009
Casa and the Beach House
It has been a while since I've updated. Sorry!
We stayed at The Farm for five days, and although it was totally amazing, I was happy to go back to Meknes. I love people watching and seeing the busy city, so I was definitely missing the constant entertainment of Meknes.
Once we got back to Meknes, I unfortunately got a little sick and stayed inside for most of the day on Wednesday. Wednesday night at around 10 pm we drove to Casablanca so we could be there the next morning to pick up Kat at the airport. We got to Casa at around 1 am and met up with Aly's cousin, Amine, who cooked us a yummy dinner of chicken tajine, and we ended up staying at his place because we got so tired. The next morning we picked up Kat at the airport at around 10, and we were all so hapy to see her! Kat is also a former ISA participant, and is also from Seattle. She has just graduated from college, and has decided to move over here and live for a while. We actually had lunch in Seattle a few months ago because the boys wanted us to meet, so seeing her again was great! I also have to admit that it's nice having another girl around... I've been living with boys for 10 days and I am starting to miss females. haha.
After picking her up we went to a beach house that Aly's cousin has about 20 or 30 minutes north of Casa, between Casa and Mohammedia. The house is small and looks pretty shabby since it hasn't been updated since it was built, but it has hot water, a flushing toilet, and is literally right on the beach. The deck in the front provides ample people/beach watching, and you can hear the waves break all night. We made dinner together and ate it as the sun set. After, we walked on the beach (I collected lots of cool shells!), smoked hookah, and just hung out.
This morning we went swimming and I got to tan a bit, which made me happy. Then we went into Casa and had lunch, and met up with some other friends who came back to the beach house with us. We cooked an amazing dinner for everyone, and I definitely learned a lot about moroccan cooking... the problem is that we don't have some of the stuff that they use, and visa versa.
We'll be heading back to Meknes in the morning, and I really wish we could stay longer.
We stayed at The Farm for five days, and although it was totally amazing, I was happy to go back to Meknes. I love people watching and seeing the busy city, so I was definitely missing the constant entertainment of Meknes.
Once we got back to Meknes, I unfortunately got a little sick and stayed inside for most of the day on Wednesday. Wednesday night at around 10 pm we drove to Casablanca so we could be there the next morning to pick up Kat at the airport. We got to Casa at around 1 am and met up with Aly's cousin, Amine, who cooked us a yummy dinner of chicken tajine, and we ended up staying at his place because we got so tired. The next morning we picked up Kat at the airport at around 10, and we were all so hapy to see her! Kat is also a former ISA participant, and is also from Seattle. She has just graduated from college, and has decided to move over here and live for a while. We actually had lunch in Seattle a few months ago because the boys wanted us to meet, so seeing her again was great! I also have to admit that it's nice having another girl around... I've been living with boys for 10 days and I am starting to miss females. haha.
After picking her up we went to a beach house that Aly's cousin has about 20 or 30 minutes north of Casa, between Casa and Mohammedia. The house is small and looks pretty shabby since it hasn't been updated since it was built, but it has hot water, a flushing toilet, and is literally right on the beach. The deck in the front provides ample people/beach watching, and you can hear the waves break all night. We made dinner together and ate it as the sun set. After, we walked on the beach (I collected lots of cool shells!), smoked hookah, and just hung out.
This morning we went swimming and I got to tan a bit, which made me happy. Then we went into Casa and had lunch, and met up with some other friends who came back to the beach house with us. We cooked an amazing dinner for everyone, and I definitely learned a lot about moroccan cooking... the problem is that we don't have some of the stuff that they use, and visa versa.
We'll be heading back to Meknes in the morning, and I really wish we could stay longer.
Friday, June 26, 2009
Meknes Adventures and The Farm
The past few days have been filled with Meknes adventures and good food. Mouhsin and I spend the afternoons, when it is cooler, wandering through the Medina, Hamriya, and Zitune. I love the Medina because you can find everything and everyone there. The Old City is an amazing mix of miles of walls and palaces, with thousands of people selling and buying everything you could possibly want. On the other side of the walls, is Hamriya, the New City... where you find bars, clubs, hotels, gas stations, and all the westers amenities (flushing toilets, how I love thee).
I've spent two afternoons with Mouhsin's family. The first at his parents house, where I finally met his father, and got to hang out with Mouhsin and his brothers. The second was at his sister Touria's house, where I got to play with her amazing little girl, Nada.
The Moroccan house is an amazing thing, and I would love mine to be just like it. All of the Moroccan homes that I have seen have two living rooms... one is for guests, and the other is for family. The first time you enter a home, you are taken to the guest room, where you are served mint tea, or hot milk with a splash of sweet coffee, along with amazing treats like almond cookies. While this room is beautiful, I've come to love the family room, because there everyone relaxes and you no longer feel like a guest, and more like family. It is a guarantee that you will be fed constantly in a Moroccan house. Even if you have already eaten, they will insist that you eat more, and after you have eaten more, again, they will keep insisting. I'm sure the only reason why everyone isn't completely fat, is because the food is so healthy.
Yesterday we loaded up the car (that includes 6 people) and drove a bit outside of Meknes to Ali's family's farm. The farm is huge, and includes everything from rabbits and camels, to almonds and olives. The main house is huge and reminds me of paradise. There are beautiful terraces covered with grape vines, fruit trees, roses, and it is amazingly quiet. We drove all around the farm until sunset, which we watched parked in a wheat field that totally reminded me of that Gladiator scene, because the hills of wheat went on for ever and ever. After sunset we went back to the house and cooked up a bunch of stuff for dinner. All six of us passed out finally around 3;30 am after having a great evening.
This morning we woke up to the smell of fresh bread, and were served a breakfast of olive oil, homemade jellies, honey from the farm, olives, butter, and fresh baked bread, still warm from the outdoor oven it was cooked in. Along with that came hot milk with a splash of sweet coffee, and then mint tea (both my favorites). After breakfast we lounged in the beautiful courtyards for a bit, and then went out to see the animals on the farm (my mission was camels!). We found a group of 6 camels, which were so cute and I had the best time petting them. I think Star Wars got some of their weird animal sounds from camels... they sound very much like some Star Wars creatures when they're unhappy. After that Ali took me to one edge of the farm, which runs along a beautiful valley. Back at the house, we relaxed and hung out, and then at around 5pm we were served the most delicious dinner ever. The women here should be praised... they are amazing cooks. First we had plates of tomatoes onion salad with olive oil and peper, along with lots of little plates of different kinds of olives. Then came a huge tajine of lamb with olives and potatoes. Then came sausages, and kebabs, which had all kinds of weird organs hidden between actual meat, so I didn't eat those much, haha.
It's now a bit after that feast, and I'm lounging on an amazing couch next to a courtyard as it gets cooler and the sun starts to fade. We'll probably spend another night here, so I'm looking forward to another amazing day tomorrow.
I've spent two afternoons with Mouhsin's family. The first at his parents house, where I finally met his father, and got to hang out with Mouhsin and his brothers. The second was at his sister Touria's house, where I got to play with her amazing little girl, Nada.
The Moroccan house is an amazing thing, and I would love mine to be just like it. All of the Moroccan homes that I have seen have two living rooms... one is for guests, and the other is for family. The first time you enter a home, you are taken to the guest room, where you are served mint tea, or hot milk with a splash of sweet coffee, along with amazing treats like almond cookies. While this room is beautiful, I've come to love the family room, because there everyone relaxes and you no longer feel like a guest, and more like family. It is a guarantee that you will be fed constantly in a Moroccan house. Even if you have already eaten, they will insist that you eat more, and after you have eaten more, again, they will keep insisting. I'm sure the only reason why everyone isn't completely fat, is because the food is so healthy.
Yesterday we loaded up the car (that includes 6 people) and drove a bit outside of Meknes to Ali's family's farm. The farm is huge, and includes everything from rabbits and camels, to almonds and olives. The main house is huge and reminds me of paradise. There are beautiful terraces covered with grape vines, fruit trees, roses, and it is amazingly quiet. We drove all around the farm until sunset, which we watched parked in a wheat field that totally reminded me of that Gladiator scene, because the hills of wheat went on for ever and ever. After sunset we went back to the house and cooked up a bunch of stuff for dinner. All six of us passed out finally around 3;30 am after having a great evening.
This morning we woke up to the smell of fresh bread, and were served a breakfast of olive oil, homemade jellies, honey from the farm, olives, butter, and fresh baked bread, still warm from the outdoor oven it was cooked in. Along with that came hot milk with a splash of sweet coffee, and then mint tea (both my favorites). After breakfast we lounged in the beautiful courtyards for a bit, and then went out to see the animals on the farm (my mission was camels!). We found a group of 6 camels, which were so cute and I had the best time petting them. I think Star Wars got some of their weird animal sounds from camels... they sound very much like some Star Wars creatures when they're unhappy. After that Ali took me to one edge of the farm, which runs along a beautiful valley. Back at the house, we relaxed and hung out, and then at around 5pm we were served the most delicious dinner ever. The women here should be praised... they are amazing cooks. First we had plates of tomatoes onion salad with olive oil and peper, along with lots of little plates of different kinds of olives. Then came a huge tajine of lamb with olives and potatoes. Then came sausages, and kebabs, which had all kinds of weird organs hidden between actual meat, so I didn't eat those much, haha.
It's now a bit after that feast, and I'm lounging on an amazing couch next to a courtyard as it gets cooler and the sun starts to fade. We'll probably spend another night here, so I'm looking forward to another amazing day tomorrow.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
First night celebrations
When: 6/20/09
Where: Meknes
14 hours of flying, zero hours of sleep, and a four hour train ride later, I am finally in Meknes. Try as I might, I was unable to sleep on th flight from Salt Late City to Paris, but I arrived in Morocco energized by shear excitement. Mouhsin met me outside customs, and seeing him was the best thing that had happened to me all day (even better than the airline not loosing my luggage!).
The train ride, however, was a different story. Contrary to train tickets in the US, paying for a ticket in Morocco does not equal paying for an actual seat on the train. Once the train arrives at the station, passengers scramble to make it to an enterence, where a bottle neck ensures and hot sweaty bodies push past each other to make it to the first empty seat. For those 'lucky' few who find seats in a compartment, four people are squashed together shoulder to shoulder, thigh to thigh on a narrow hard bench. With only a small part of the window able to be opened, the compartment stays a steady 97 degrees. If you're me, then you are squashed between Creepy Moroccan Dude #1 and Creepy Moroccan Dude #2, who will not stop staring at you because you are clearly western and your voluminous har is no doubt touching their shoulders, which is probably more action than they've had all year.
Meanwhile, Mouhsin (having been so chivalrous as to let me take the seat) is standing in the narrow hall that runs down the side of the train next to the compartments. The hall, too, stays a constant 90 some degrees, with people crushing up against each other. (i'm not really sure if sitting or standing is worse...). By the time I make it of the train three and a half hours later, my clothes are more sweat then fabric, and that mixed with my long flight made me want nothing more in the world than a nice cold shower.
After finally arriving at The Palace (what we call the apartment), the first thing I did was reward my exhausted body with the best cold shower I have ever had. Even though I was beyond exhaustion, I still said yes when Mouhsin asked if I wanted to go to dinner at his friend Ali's family's house. If there is one thing I know, it is that you never turn down a good meal from a Moroccan family. I didn't know until I arrived that the 'dinner' was actually a huge celebration for Ali's one year old niece.
Tables were set up under a huge canopy where at least 75 guests and family members were drinking mint tea and eating an array of savory and sweet morsels. While the men wore normal dress clothes like slacks and botton down shirts, the women wore beautiful caftans in every color and pattern. it was also interesting to see how the younger daughters of the older generation wore normal western clothes and looked as if they were going to their senior prom with their high heals and blackberries. I wonder if loosing a tradition like caftans is the product of globalization, and if there can not still be both.
After a while of live Moroccan music, tea, and conversation, other music started in the distance and from behind a corner the mother and her two children, decorated in beautiful outfits and carried in an elaborate quazi roman litter, were carried out on the shoulders of four men. They were preceeded by a band playing music and singing, which the guests soon joined as the litter was slowly danced through the tables and brought to the center of the conopy. Once they were finally set down, a flood of pictures ensued as all of the guests took turns taking pictures with the mother and her children. The first Moroccan band started again and people started dancing. Soon after, a huge, completely over-elaborate cake tower was brought out, which was lit with not only candles, but also confetti exploding sparklers. Then everyone proceeded to sing happy birthday to the little girl in 5 variations, 3 languages, and at least 7 times. After cake was served to all of the guests, the dancing started again and the baby's father carried her around to each of the tables to be loved and honored by everyone.
At around 12 am, dinner was announced and everyone moved to difference tables that were set up on the lawn. Each round table sat around 10 people. First, a huge platter was brought out with the biggest bastilla I have ever seen. It was at least as large as two full size kitchen sinks and was filled with ground beef mixed with crushed sweet almonds, wraped in philo dough, and glazes with honey. While everyone had individual plates, we mostly ignored them and are Moroccan style, using our fingers and eating out of the main dish. The bastilla was taken away and another huge dish was set in its place. This one was filled with huge chunks of savory lamb that had been sacrificed that morning on the very gound we were eating on. It was incredibly tender and literally fell apart before you could get it in your mouth. On the dish, the lamb was covered with dried apricots and walnuts, which complimented the spiced meat to perfection. Again, this dish was taken away and another appeared shortly after. Roasted chickens with slow cooked vegetables again fell apart befor you could get them in your mouth. I could barely touch this dish because I had basically inhaled the lamb. After this dish was removed, an amazing cake made completely out of sweet ice cream placed on top of a tower of fruit was set in its place. Along with that came a tort that I couldn't even try because I was so full.
The party ended after the meal, at around 2:30 am, but the elongated farewells and ending conversations were like a celebration in themselves. I thanked all of the family members who hosted the party and headed off the the best night of sleep in my life-- full and completely content.
Where: Meknes
14 hours of flying, zero hours of sleep, and a four hour train ride later, I am finally in Meknes. Try as I might, I was unable to sleep on th flight from Salt Late City to Paris, but I arrived in Morocco energized by shear excitement. Mouhsin met me outside customs, and seeing him was the best thing that had happened to me all day (even better than the airline not loosing my luggage!).
The train ride, however, was a different story. Contrary to train tickets in the US, paying for a ticket in Morocco does not equal paying for an actual seat on the train. Once the train arrives at the station, passengers scramble to make it to an enterence, where a bottle neck ensures and hot sweaty bodies push past each other to make it to the first empty seat. For those 'lucky' few who find seats in a compartment, four people are squashed together shoulder to shoulder, thigh to thigh on a narrow hard bench. With only a small part of the window able to be opened, the compartment stays a steady 97 degrees. If you're me, then you are squashed between Creepy Moroccan Dude #1 and Creepy Moroccan Dude #2, who will not stop staring at you because you are clearly western and your voluminous har is no doubt touching their shoulders, which is probably more action than they've had all year.
Meanwhile, Mouhsin (having been so chivalrous as to let me take the seat) is standing in the narrow hall that runs down the side of the train next to the compartments. The hall, too, stays a constant 90 some degrees, with people crushing up against each other. (i'm not really sure if sitting or standing is worse...). By the time I make it of the train three and a half hours later, my clothes are more sweat then fabric, and that mixed with my long flight made me want nothing more in the world than a nice cold shower.
After finally arriving at The Palace (what we call the apartment), the first thing I did was reward my exhausted body with the best cold shower I have ever had. Even though I was beyond exhaustion, I still said yes when Mouhsin asked if I wanted to go to dinner at his friend Ali's family's house. If there is one thing I know, it is that you never turn down a good meal from a Moroccan family. I didn't know until I arrived that the 'dinner' was actually a huge celebration for Ali's one year old niece.
Tables were set up under a huge canopy where at least 75 guests and family members were drinking mint tea and eating an array of savory and sweet morsels. While the men wore normal dress clothes like slacks and botton down shirts, the women wore beautiful caftans in every color and pattern. it was also interesting to see how the younger daughters of the older generation wore normal western clothes and looked as if they were going to their senior prom with their high heals and blackberries. I wonder if loosing a tradition like caftans is the product of globalization, and if there can not still be both.
After a while of live Moroccan music, tea, and conversation, other music started in the distance and from behind a corner the mother and her two children, decorated in beautiful outfits and carried in an elaborate quazi roman litter, were carried out on the shoulders of four men. They were preceeded by a band playing music and singing, which the guests soon joined as the litter was slowly danced through the tables and brought to the center of the conopy. Once they were finally set down, a flood of pictures ensued as all of the guests took turns taking pictures with the mother and her children. The first Moroccan band started again and people started dancing. Soon after, a huge, completely over-elaborate cake tower was brought out, which was lit with not only candles, but also confetti exploding sparklers. Then everyone proceeded to sing happy birthday to the little girl in 5 variations, 3 languages, and at least 7 times. After cake was served to all of the guests, the dancing started again and the baby's father carried her around to each of the tables to be loved and honored by everyone.
At around 12 am, dinner was announced and everyone moved to difference tables that were set up on the lawn. Each round table sat around 10 people. First, a huge platter was brought out with the biggest bastilla I have ever seen. It was at least as large as two full size kitchen sinks and was filled with ground beef mixed with crushed sweet almonds, wraped in philo dough, and glazes with honey. While everyone had individual plates, we mostly ignored them and are Moroccan style, using our fingers and eating out of the main dish. The bastilla was taken away and another huge dish was set in its place. This one was filled with huge chunks of savory lamb that had been sacrificed that morning on the very gound we were eating on. It was incredibly tender and literally fell apart before you could get it in your mouth. On the dish, the lamb was covered with dried apricots and walnuts, which complimented the spiced meat to perfection. Again, this dish was taken away and another appeared shortly after. Roasted chickens with slow cooked vegetables again fell apart befor you could get them in your mouth. I could barely touch this dish because I had basically inhaled the lamb. After this dish was removed, an amazing cake made completely out of sweet ice cream placed on top of a tower of fruit was set in its place. Along with that came a tort that I couldn't even try because I was so full.
The party ended after the meal, at around 2:30 am, but the elongated farewells and ending conversations were like a celebration in themselves. I thanked all of the family members who hosted the party and headed off the the best night of sleep in my life-- full and completely content.
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